Reykjavík has become one of the most visited places on the planet with millions of people walking down Laugavegur, the city’s main drag, every year. Today, gleaming new buildings line the waterfront and modern hotels rise across the city.

But veer off the main streets of Reykjavík, and you’ll uncover a different side of the city: Small alleys, whimsical murals, rundown apartments, and old-school bars. These won’t last forever (in fact, they might be already gone by the time you read this), so I thought it was worth posting these photos of the Icelandic capital that you might not find in a guidebook.

Corner of Vitastígur and Skúlagata, in 101. Photo: Craig Nelson

Ölstofan Kormáks & Skjaldar bar, Vegamótastígur, 101 Reykjavík. Photo: Craig Nelson

Mushroom, Sara Riel, Hverfisgata 42, in 101. Photo: Craig Nelson

Njálsgata 10, in 101. Photo: Craig Nelson

Njálsgata 10. Photo: Craig Nelson

A tunnel alley in 101. Photo: Craig Nelson

Furry Flight by Sara Riel, Njálsgata 4. Photo: Craig Nelson

Special thanks to Toby Wikström for helping to identify the locations and artists.