The Murals of La Marqueta

Up at 115th and Park Avenue, some exciting developments are happening at La Marqueta, a long time public market under the Metro-North tracks. We’ll be posting more about this neighborhood landmark in the coming months, but first we thought we’d share some photos we took in 2005. Tops Market used to be a tenant in La Marqueta years back selling lots of meat to local shoppers. Even though Tops is long gone, the memory lives on with these beautiful murals that grace the sides of the building adding some much needed character to Park Avenue. Hopefully the vibrant feeling these works of art bring to the street will soon be transferred to the inside of a revived La Marqueta

C. Nelson, 2005.

C. Nelson, 2005.

C. Nelson, 2005.

C. Nelson, 2005.

C. Nelson, 2005.

C. Nelson, 2005.

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A Big Ups for The Big Map

Here at across106thstreet we absolutely love maps. We go crazy for them. In fact, we’ll just be blunt–we are total cartographic nerds. While some parents work hard all their life so their kids can proudly become doctors, lawyers, or professors, my folks busted their butts so this 106thstreeter could study…yup, geography.

From very rare maps of New York from 1770 to high concept map blogs, we just can’t get enough cartography in our lives. But there’s one special map that we hold dear to our hearts: The Big Map on the always excellent Bridge and Tunnel Club website. Full disclosure–two of our favorite people in the world are the geniuses behind this cool site. They love New York and love to show off their unique discoveries even more. The cool thing is that the The Big Map is not something you use on the ground; you can’t even print it out and walk around with it. It’s something you use from the comfort of your own computer screen. You can go on an urban adventure from your heated apartment. And in the middle of February that’s a godsend.

Those far out neighborhoods in Brooklyn that you swear you’ll finally explore when the weather gets above frigid, but never do? The Big Map has them. The parts of Queens you can’t even reach by subway? Yeah, The Big Map covers those ‘hoods as too. That time-tripping historic farm-house you read about in Time Out five years ago? Bingo. Packed with thousands of photos to enhance your exploratory experience, The Big Map is loaded with places and spaces you’ve probably never heard of. The Big Map even has a Get out of Town section which covers the entire globe from Bologna to Bennington to Bangkok. So, what are you waiting for? Go forth ragazzi.

The Big Map, courtesy of Bridge & Tunnel Club.

 

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Fight Like an Egyptian

Yeah, so I’ve always hated the effing Bangles, but after a days work plus several glasses of lower-middle class Riesling, my brain reached for the obvious. The 106thstreeters have been glued to the events in Tunisia, Egypt, Yemen…Not having access to a TV, we’ve been spending extra hours at our neighborhood gym, on any machine near a TV that is showing coverage of what is going down in Egypt. With jaw dropped and teary eyes, this 106thstreeter has witnessed badass and horrific human actions via the gym TV. While others at the gym seem to be unaware of crazed men charging on horseback and camelback through Tahrir Square, preferring the latest great ass/I’m so happy I’m a pretty girl video mindfuck to historic feats of bravery, I’ve been witnessing, yeah, a revolution…televised. Respect.

That said, this 106thstreeter is professionally and ethically invested in the business of making our cultural heritage (libraries, archives, museums) accessible and safe. So I share with you updates from my colleagues in Egypt:

Bibliotheca Alexandrina/The New Library of Alexandria:

Teeny image of the protectors of the library. Follow the link above for more images.

Also, from the International Federation of Library Associations (IFLA):

2 February 2011

Blue Shield Statement on Egypt

Blue Shield

31 January 2011

Following the recent events in Egypt, the Blue Shield expresses its great concern about the safeguarding of the country’s invaluable cultural heritage amid the existing turmoil.

Starting last Friday evening, a number of important museums and sites in Egypt have fallen prey to looters. Thankfully, in certain cases, it has been reported that members of civil society stood to protect museums and heritage sites all over the country. This demonstrates not only the attachment of the local population for their cultural heritage and their determination to protect it, but also the vulnerability of cultural institutions, sites and monuments during times of great conflict.

It is universally recognised that Egypt has an incomparable history and heritage which has had a profound and lasting influence on people throughout the world. Any loss of Egyptian cultural property would seriously impoverish the collective memory of mankind. Egypt has an exceptionally rich cultural heritage and it is imperative that every precaution necessary be taken by all sides involved in this strife to avoid destruction or damage to archives, libraries, monuments and sites, and museums.

Blue Shield urges all sectors of Egyptian society to do everything in their power to curb or prevent all actions that could result in the damage or destruction of their cultural heritage. The Blue Shield also praises the courageous citizens of Cairo and the rest of Egypt who spontaneously mobilized to protect the Egyptian Museum and other cultural institutions. We call on all Egyptians to continue giving the fullest support to all efforts to prevent damage to heritage sites and institutions throughout the country.

The Blue Shield Mission is “to work to protect the world’s cultural heritage threatened by armed conflict, natural and man‐made disasters”. For this reason, it places the expertise and network of its member organisations at the disposal of their Egyptian colleagues to support their work in protecting the country’s heritage, in assessing the damage that has occurred, and for subsequent recovery, restoration and repair measures.

The member organisations of the Blue Shield are currently liaising with Egyptian colleagues to obtain further information on both the situation and on the possible needs and types of help required so as to mobilise their networks accordingly.

A more complete report on damages, needs and actions will be published subsequently, in order to facilitate coordination.

The actions of the Blue Shield can also be followed on

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Take the A Train (actually, take the M2 bus)

Those in the know already know about the supremely lovely Marjorie Eliot, jazz pianist and host to one of the best live jazz shows you’ll ever live. On Sundays at 4pm, there’s nothing better than heading way uptown to Sugar Hill where the jazz flows freely. That said, we here at 106th Street have an easy commute to 555 Edgecombe Avenue via what we call the Jazz Express. It’s just a quick shuffle across 106th Street to Madison Avenue where the M2 chariots its Harlem menagerie to the door steps of some the best live jazz clubs in NYC: Minton’s Playhouse, Perk’s, Showman’s, Shrine, and  St. Nick’s. Truth be told, the M3 is just as good. Better yet, take the M2 uptown and the M3 downtown. You won’t miss a beat.

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A Perfect Slice Of New York

How can such a simple food bring such enormous pleasure? We ask ourselves this question every time we step up to the take-out counter at Patsy’s Pizzeria (2287 1st Ave b/w 117th & 118th). While we wait to order a slice or two, we contemplate what makes this eating experience so good. Some folks swear by the pies in the dining room, but we prefer the tiny (and usually crowded) take-out space. It’s nothing fancy–just two workers, a TV always blasting Telemundo or Univision, a Coke machine, a wooden counter, and the best damn slices anywhere. This is a New York pizza experience of the old-school variety that’s almost impossible to find in 2011. While one guy sweats away making pies as fast as he can, the other guy serves up the $1.75 slices to the constantly rotating crew of East Harlem locals, truck drivers, school kids, cops, suburbanites on their way back to Connecticut, and any other type of human you can think of. There is a constant pile of vehicles taking up parts of two lanes on First Avenue. The traffic cops don’t seem to care, since they’re in Patsy’s getting slices like everyone else. We usually stand at the counter by the window and devour our slice while watching this urban ballet of double parked cars and hungry folks jumping in and out of Patsy’s.

But let’s get back to the slice. This coal oven blasted beauty is expertly crafted; the tangy sauce and ample amount of cheese sits perfectly on the charred dough. Proportions are everything in a good slice, and this one is very thin with a little bit of heaviness from the ingredients. Size matters too, and Patsy’s slice is just right–not too big and not too small. Fold it up and take a bite. This is New York food for the masses before giant chains moved in and took away all the flavor, atmosphere, and neighborhood identity. That’s the beauty of Patsy’s. They’re not trying to be gourmet. They’re not selling t-shirts. They don’t even offer any slice other than cheese. They’re just making pizza the only way they know how. And since 1933, New Yorkers have been gratefully flocking to their door. Long live Patsy’s of East Harlem.

The perfect slice. C. Nelson, 2011.

Another round of slices coming up. C. Nelson, 2011.

The take out counter. C. Nelson, 2011.

The ancient Patsy’s oven. C. Nelson, 2011.

Still looking mighty fine after all those years. C. Nelson, 2011.

Posted in East Harlem Life, Eat, Drink & Be Merry, Exploring New York City | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

“Straight Ahead”, No Chaser: A Celebration of Billy Taylor

Billy Taylor (1921-2010)

2,100 of jazz pianist and composer Billy Taylor’s family, friends, colleagues, and admirers turned out in full force at Riverside Church to bask in the life of Taylor. Also known as Dr. Billy Taylor, for his actual PhD (Music Education; UMass Amherst), as well as for his unfailing life coach bedside manner, helping anyone who showed the need or desire to find their voice. In Harlem, the Jazzmobile, one of Taylor’s creations, has been streaming live jazz to anyone who can afford the FREE admission ticket since 1964. For the unlucky who don’t live in NYC, Taylor has also been spreading the swinging, cool, and hot sounds of “America’s classical music” via live shows in NYC, KC, DC, etc. or via taped shows on TV. One thing the 106thstreeters learned attending the services for Taylor is that even in death, Billy Taylor is still a master teacher. As we walked away from the church, bells tolling, we were reminded that a well lived life, hopefully with a brilliant jazz soundtrack, is how you get to heaven on earth and beyond. Some of Billy Taylor’s most beloved family and friends testified to such. Taylor’s daughter and son-in-law, Kim Taylor-Thompson and Anthony Taylor, Reverend Calvin O. Butts III (SUNY and Abyssinian Baptist Church), Ramsey Lewis, Loren Schoenberg (The National Jazz Museum in Harlem), Christian Sands, Robin Bell-Stevens, Kevin Struthers (Kennedy Center, Jazz Education), Cassandra Wilson, and the Billy Taylor Quintet all helped those in attendance know and remember Taylor.

During the services for Billy Taylor in the nave of Riverside Church. C. Nelson, 2011.

The Billy Taylor Quintet plays “It’s a Grand Night for Swinging” during the recessional. C. Nelson, 2011.

Nina Simone live at Montreux Jazz Festival 1976 performing Billy Taylor’s “I Wish I Knew How it Would Feel to be Free.”

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La Lovely Tropezienne

Here at across106thstreet we’re big fans of great baked goods. Fanatics really. Do you know anyone else who would travel many neighborhoods away just to pick up a banana chocolate chip muffin from a fish market? Didn’t think so. Luckily, we don’t always have to travel so far to satisfy our morning sweet tooth. Right down the street on First Avenue is the amazing La Tropezienne (2131 1st Ave b/w 109th & 110th). Open nice and early at 6 am, this place has a steady stream of locals and cabbies darting in and out all day until it’s 8 pm closure. One of the most popular items is the buttered bread. Just a simple, classic baguette smeared with lots of butter–you can never go wrong ordering it. The light and crunchy bread, paired with the creamy butter, makes a great combo. Late in the day the bread starts running out, so go in the morning to secure a baguette, ciabatta, wheat bread, or Viennoise. Other savory items include homemade quiche and ham (or spinach) and cheese croissants. If we’re in the mood for an evening treat, we’ll stroll over after work to pick up dessert–like an eclair, an opera, or lemon tart. Although the savory and dessert items taste great, we must confess that our real love is for the fantastic, affordable pastries. Raspberry croissants,  cinnamon twists with icing, apple turnovers, apricot danishes…they’re all worth raving about. But we highly recommend the most excellent Almond Turc. It’s huge, baked to eggy perfection, and filled with an addictive almond paste. The best part is that it’s only $2.50 and will easily feed two people. With a cup of good coffee, there’s no better way to start your day. In fact, it’s so good we’d even trek all the way downtown for it. Luckily, we don’t have to. There’s no better recommendation than that.

The unassuming store front hides a pastry wonderland. C. Nelson, 2011.

You could spend hours contemplating the dessert case. C. Nelson, 2011.

We love their sign. But we've yet to see a gentleman on a bicycle delivering bread. That would be amazing. C. Nelson, 2011.

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Three Kings Day Parade

January 6th is always a special day in Spanish Harlem. The neighborhood comes out to celebrate Three Kings Day with a wonderful parade organized by El Museo Del Barrio that goes right down the heart of 106th Street. There’s great music from jazz to to Afro-Peruvian to drumlines, colorful costumes and giant puppets, cute kids galore, and yes, even a few live camels make the trek. Despite the chilly temperatures, the January weather doesn’t dampen the festive spirits one bit.

The drumline leads the parade down 106th. C. Nelson, 2011.

Giant puppets always make people happy. C. Nelson, 2011.

Hundreds of kids from all over the city join the parade. C. Nelson, 2011.

This jazzy band was making some sweet sounds. C. Nelson, 2011.

This puppet was sponsored by Museum of the City of NY. C. Nelson, 2011.

The legendary three kings in the flesh. C. Nelson, 2011.

Never thought you'd see a camel on 106th Street? C. Nelson, 2011.

The parade ended with a local bike club showing off their style. C. Nelson, 2011.

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New York in Black and White

Like Narcissus, New York City can’t stop gazing at itself. Now NYC looks good at many angles.

Behold the Chrysler. C. Nelson, 2008.

If you’re like the 106thstreeters, you’ve noticed by now that New York is at its most beautiful at night.

Dark matter. C. Nelson, 2009.

A close second is New York in black and white.

From photography,

Helen Levitt, circa 1940. From Lawrence Miller Gallery exhibit, 2009. Kids walking in Spanish Harlem along the Metro-North, heading downtown.

to graphite/conte on newsprint,

Lloyd Goldsmith. Night Empire State, 1997.

to film,

Pick up on South Street. Sam Fuller, 1953.

Shadows. John Cassavetes, 1959.

we just can’t get enough. That’s why we spent a quiet New Year’s Day viewing our city from the eyes of Sam Fuller and John Cassavetes. Made just six years apart, Fuller’s Pick Up on South Street and Cassavetes’ Shadows, seem like they were made in different centuries. But both show a New York we know. Just at different angles. Pick Up is all noir, commies, cops, dames, hustlers, heroes, subways and South Street Seaport. Shadows is Midtown, jazz, cool kids, Central Park, diners, dancing, and boozy parties. Staring into the reflection of our city, we could not turn away.

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Groove is in the New Year

Never ones to succumb New Year party peer pressure, the 106thstreeters headed out to Williamsburg to enjoy New Year celebrations one night early at Zebulon. How could we resist a line up of a few of our favorite musical things? DJs/Good Records NYC crew, DJ Lihn & Jonny Paycheck laid down music from Brasil, Africa, Latin America, and Jamaica for the price of a whiskey, beer, or herbal tea (as some in-house were drinking, hopefully spiked). While a strange crew of Billyburg kidz attempted to wow us/confuse us with handstands and strange gyrating/trashy stripper impersonations a la some creepy Patrick Dempsey/Demi Moore Hollywood shit flicks, the music was the star of the night. The music was gorgeous as was the vibe. In a mere four hours, we were able to start our New Year’s resolutions early: drink more; listen to the best music as yet created on the planet; and support local businesses that are worthy of what little money we can contribute in these hard times. Now that’s a good start to 2011.

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